It is normal for the rotor to be loose on the spindle when the wheel is removed.
The next thing I would do is retorque the axle nut, I don't know how but one of mine got loose even though the locking ring and cotter pin were still in place, then make sure the slop isn't in a suspension link, otherwise it is most likely the wheel bearing.

 

... This wiggle does not go away when the wheel is installed and torqued down.

Not possible with standard equipment. The rotor is normally clamped between the wheel and the hub. Is the wheel loose also? Do you have aftermarket wheels with a centering ring? Are the lug nuts bottomed out?

 

Yes, the wheel is also loose (only the drivers side). I am using factory Toyota wheels with no centering rings, the correct lug nuts, and the correct torque.

 

Ok, something is wrong. Either there is some foreign object in the way, or one of the components is wrong. Maybe the studs are too long.

 

If coming from the rear you may want to check your rear tie rods. If coming from the front it could be something as simple as a bad sway bar end link. Of course with any suspension an/or drive train noise you will have to check all the many different possibilities, i.e. ball joints, bushings, bearings, tie rods, brakes, loose bolts, etc. etc. There are easy procedure/tests for checking the condition of all these components. Just test/inspect them one at a time until you find the problem, no other way around it. Good luck and lets us know what the culprit was.

 

Is the brake rotor Crack or broken in a way that it's lose but still attach?

 

The brake rotor is not cracked or broken in any way. The brakes work just fine. I have been using these wheels/studs/lug bolts for years and have never had this problem before.

 

From you description, I agree that it is likely a hub bearing, or possibly a very dangerous cracked axle end. Put the car on the ground, put some force into rocking the wheel. Does it wiggle in any direction? Take off the wheel, get the caliper out of the way and remove the rotor. Is there any play in the hub spindle within the hub carrier? If so, even if it goes away by tightening the axle nut, replace your bearing immediately. A shot bearing will quickly ruin your hub spindle and then your axle. You don't want to shop for SC axles.

 

Taken from this thread: http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=603489

A bad bearing looks like this.

https://youtu.be/XIBytkbV1GY
https://youtu.be/kO9tYq8_4uc

The spindle should spin with a bit of resistance, completely firm in its rotation.

 

Haha, yeah that was mine and it was definitely bad. I also just replaced the front driver's side bearing. It didn't move around like that one but was squeaking after a long drive. I narrowed it down to the front since both rears had been replaced, then jacked up the front and spun each side. The driver's side had a very bad rattle and little resistance (passenger side had more resistance and much less noise). Here's a video of the noise.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKqy5JwSW7o

When I took it apart I thought I was going to see something very wrong with the bearing races or balls but didn't see anything. It might have just been dirt making the noise since the outer seal looks like it failed and the grease on that side only was very dirty. The race or balls may have uniformly worn down and created a bit of clearance.

-Mike

 

Thanks to everyone for their input.
I currently need to put off this project due to other priorities. Hopefully, if I can get an appropriate lift and some heat in my garage, I will be able to tackle this and other jobs some time over the winter.
Please feel free to continue to post.
Have a nice holiday season.
All the best.
Thanks
Paul

 

Nuts!

You might check the axle nut that secures the hub to the axle. I had a similar noise as you described from my right rear. Kept thinking it was a cracked rim (steel) or loose lug nuts. Squeaked more when I turned left. I even switched wheels around and that's when I discovered the loose axle nut. Removed the cotter pin and retainer cap, Didn't appear that the splines were damaged so I torqued to spec. (Actually 10 more ft. lbs.) No more noise after 3500 miles.

 

Problem Solved!
I double checked the torque setting on the drivers side rear axle nut. It was a bit loose. I tightened it up to proper torque (137 ft-lbs) and all the bearing play went away. All the strange noises went away too. I took it for a 10 mile drive with no problems.
Perhaps it is time to get a decent digital electronic torque wrench. Any suggestions?
Again, thanks for the help.
Paul

 

This is probably the beginning of the end of your wheel bearing. Check it again (frequently) after driving to see if there is play or if the axle nut if still to torque. It will likely continue to wear and and developed play. If you let it go too far you will need to replace the hub spindle as well as the bearing.