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1ZZ-FE. Why not?

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23K views 52 replies 24 participants last post by  mr220v  
#1 ·
I'm considering a 1ZZ swap into my 24HL endurance racer for a lighter engine that gives maybe 20 more HP. I read a lot about 2ZZ swaps don't see much/any documentation on a 1ZZ swap. Obviously most swaps will be to achieve more power and the 2ZZ is a good choice for that. I don't care about power or looks. I care about ease of the project, reliability, cost, and weight. This would be my first swap and I need it to be done by Thanksgiving.

Why shouldn't I attempt this? What will suck about this project? What are the engine management details that will complicate the swap?

Is most of what I read about 2ZZ swaps applicable to a 1ZZ swap?

Can I use the C52 transmission and axles?

Has anyone done this swap? Documented it?
 
#3 ·
The 1ZZ would be a great fit for the AW11. In fact it did so already, except it was a newer version. :D

Just go over blown59's 2ZZ swap thread. It will be almost exactly the same. I think the wiring should be the same except a couple VVTL-i wires less. Get an MR2 spyder transmission and you should be able to find axles that bolt up, if not the stock ones then probably some other Toyota axles should work. I can't remember what blown59 used.

I think it's a great idea, but I haven't committed to doing one and don't know if I will. It will lose between 75 and 100lbs from a normally aspirated AW11, have a much stronger torque band and about 30 more horsepower. Probably would get better gas mileage too. You also have your choice of a few different final drives as well as a six-speed from the 2ZZ XRS/GT-S models that will bolt up. Personally I would have a hard time deciding to do a 1ZZ over a 2AZ since that is one-third more displacement, 20 more horsepower, and 35 more lb-ft. It would probably be more work getting it mounted though.
 
#5 ·
Yeah, Blown's swap is where I've done most of my research so far.

I really want to know if the C52 transmission will bolt on. I don't really have the option to spend more on a transmission, as the rules of the race I'm doing (24 Hours Of Lemons) limit the amount I can spend. In fact the only way I can pull of the engine swap is to buy a wreck, take the engine, and part the rest out to recover value.

bentheswift said:
Just go over blown59's 2ZZ swap thread. It will be almost exactly the same. I think the wiring should be the same except a couple VVTL-i wires less. Get an MR2 spyder transmission and you should be able to find axles that bolt up, if not the stock ones then probably some other Toyota axles should work. I can't remember what blown59 used.

...

You also have your choice of a few different final drives as well as a six-speed from the 2ZZ XRS/GT-S models that will bolt up.
 
#7 ·
random_tox said:
I don't care about power. I care about ease of the project, reliability, cost, and weight.
so...why are you looking to put a 1zz in if you dont care about power? its not going to be the easiest swap, should be reliable, and dont they use an aluminum block/head?
i think you should go with a blacktop 20v or a gze. Much easier, good power, wont take as long to finish.
 
#8 ·
mk1noob said:
so...why are you looking to put a 1zz in if you dont care about power? its not going to be the easiest swap, should be reliable, and dont they use an aluminum block/head?
i think you should go with a blacktop 20v or a gze. Much easier, good power, wont take as long to finish.
Well, I do care a little bit about power. The bump to 120-140hp with a 1ZZ will be nice, but I don't care about it enough to go with a more expensive or heavier solution. 1ZZ is a light, modern, reliable engine.

20v and gze are hard to come by in my area.

Without getting into the subtleties or 24 Hours Of Lemons rules on total car value, lets just say I can do a 1ZZ legitimately but probably not a 20v or 4AGZE. There's a local 2001 Corolla wreck I can buy, pillage the 1ZZ, and part out, probably for about a net cost of zero, or close enough.
 
#9 ·
Have you tried Storm Performance (aka Star JDM on ebay). Layton, UT (Norman, 801-309-3911)?
I still think in the end it will cost more to do the 1zz swap then a blacktop/gze swap.
It would be great to see a 1zz swap, but im just posting my opinion.
 
#12 ·
I don't think the 4A-G C52 will bolt up to a 1ZZ. The bellhousing from the 4A C52 may or may not fit to a ZZ block. IIRC the C52 was still used on 1ZZ Corollas though, I know the C56 and C59 were both used on the 1ZZ. I have been thinking about finding an MR2 spyder C56 and comparing it to the blacktop C56 I have in my garage. That would simplify things a LOT.
 
#19 ·
mk1noob said:
lol It really cant be that hard. its already lined up because of the other 3 mounts, all you have to do is connect point A to point B and make sure its beefy enough to never break.
I believe it, but I know for me, making statements like that (at least made within earshot of anything I own that has wheels) is a recipe for disaster :thumbdown

Just teasin' him.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I?ve been doing a lot of research on this and here?s what I?ve found out.
I think this may be the best engine option for the MK1 out there. Good power and torque curve that comes in sooner then the 2zz and it relatively cheap.

However the engine has some oiling issues. In talking with the persons at MonkeyWrench they say that the engine pumps oil into the valve cover and it doesn?t drain back contributing to the oil starvation issue. The fix is to bore out the return galleys on the block and the head and this fixes the problem. About 60 dollars.
Also the oil pan has no baffles in the older models and when you go around a corner hard the oil moves to one side and doesn?t get picked up. Fix, new maroso oil pan. (it also holds two additional qts of oil) In talking again with MonkeyWrench one of their customers is running a matrix in autox and has done the boring out task and this fixed the drain back problem. Also he changed the oil pick up point and this also helped.
The one other thing that has come up is to clean out the oil holes on the crank and polish them. I don?t know what that costs but I wouldn?t think it would be too much. (MonkeyWreanch has done this for the Celica guys) Then use good bearings.

Also you should at least change the wheels for the oil pump to Circuit Works about 130 dollars I think. Or replace the Oil pump with I believe a Topa and there?s one other brand they use. The comment made was that these are made of pressed forged metal and if you starve this it returns to it?s former state( unpressed and unforged) This holds true with both the 1zz and the 2zz.

Also the corolla exhaust header would be the one to use as the down pipe comes straight down and takes a 90 degree turn and is one pipe. This would be true for both the NA and a turbo.

Also I do believe that you can use the c52 gearbox but you need to change the bellhouseing.
I still need to do some checking on this. Also the c59 is said to be the same as the c52 only stronger and it can be used by changing out some parts. If you use the SC gearbox you should be good as I?m told that it is stronger then the NA version.

If I ever get a job again I plan on getting a 86 or 87sc MK1 and putting this engine in it and turboing it.

Things that would need to be done to the internals to turbo this are change the springs, valves and seals in the head. Turbokit.com said you don?t need to do anymore. But I would at least port the head. You would need to replace the pistons to bring the CP down to 9 to 1 and forged rods. There was an issue with the early years of this engine with the rings but if you are replacing the pistons anyway this is no longer an issue.

Mr220v can do the wiring for you so it just about becomes a plug and play. He can also give you some info on the gearbox.

From what I?ve been told the best engine to get would be out of a Celica as it has been said that the valves are a bit bigger as opposed to the Vibe or Matrix. This has not been confirmed. For what ever reason they say not to use the one out of an MR-S. I think it?s because of the pre cat issues. There may be some issues with that ECU as well.
Also you want to get one without the Electronic throttle as that?s a can of worms to deal with I?m told.

All this being said the guys at TurboKits.com are getting 235 whp @ 7 psi on stock internals. They also said they get 275 whp at 11 psi on stock internal but if you do that vary much you will break a rod. If you rebuild the engine with new pistons and rods it would no longer be an issue.

You can find out a lot of information over on the newcelica forum. I don?t know if they still have it going on but they had their turbo kit on sale for 2500 to the celica guys on a group buy.

If I remember anything else I?ll add it later. Anyone need a Computer consultant/project manger so I can get started on my project car.
 
#21 ·
RodG said:
I still need to do some checking on this. Also the c59 is said to be the same as the c52 only stronger and it can be used by changing out some parts. If you use the SC gearbox you should be good as I?m told that it is stronger then the NA version.

If I ever get a job again I plan on getting a 86 or 87sc MK1 and putting this engine in it and turboing it.
I've never heard of a c-59, what's that from? You can't use the sc gearbox. It is the e-51, an e-series. Their parts are not compatible with c-series parts. Also there was no 87SC, unless you live in Japan.
 
#24 ·
sonnicX said:
The c59 was used in corollas with the 1zz. 1zz's are really cheap. I think it would be a great swap. I would personally do a 2azfe, but those things are so expensive. I dont get why since I think they are one of toyotas most widely used engines.
1zz is cheap cause it's old now and nobody wants it. the 2az is not cheap because it's still very widely used, and ppl aren't ditching them like they do with the 1zz (imho, just a rough guess really)
 
#25 ·
RodG said:
I?ve been doing a lot of research on this and here?s what I?ve found out.
I think this may be the best engine option for the MK1 out there. Good power and torque curve that comes in sooner then the 2zz and it relatively cheap.

However the engine has some oiling issues. In talking with the persons at MonkeyWrench they say that the engine pumps oil into the valve cover and it doesn?t drain back contributing to the oil starvation issue. The fix is to bore out the return galleys on the block and the head and this fixes the problem. About 60 dollars.
Also the oil pan has no baffles in the older models and when you go around a corner hard the oil moves to one side and doesn?t get picked up. Fix, new maroso oil pan. (it also holds two additional qts of oil) In talking again with MonkeyWrench one of their customers is running a matrix in autox and has done the boring out task and this fixed the drain back problem. Also he changed the oil pick up point and this also helped.
The one other thing that has come up is to clean out the oil holes on the crank and polish them. I don?t know what that costs but I wouldn?t think it would be too much. (MonkeyWreanch has done this for the Celica guys) Then use good bearings.

Also you should at least change the wheels for the oil pump to Circuit Works about 130 dollars I think. Or replace the Oil pump with I believe a Topa and there?s one other brand they use. The comment made was that these are made of pressed forged metal and if you starve this it returns to it?s former state( unpressed and unforged) This holds true with both the 1zz and the 2zz.

Also the corolla exhaust header would be the one to use as the down pipe comes straight down and takes a 90 degree turn and is one pipe. This would be true for both the NA and a turbo.

Also I do believe that you can use the c52 gearbox but you need to change the bellhouseing.
I still need to do some checking on this. Also the c59 is said to be the same as the c52 only stronger and it can be used by changing out some parts. If you use the SC gearbox you should be good as I?m told that it is stronger then the NA version.

If I ever get a job again I plan on getting a 86 or 87sc MK1 and putting this engine in it and turboing it.

Things that would need to be done to the internals to turbo this are change the springs, valves and seals in the head. Turbokit.com said you don?t need to do anymore. But I would at least port the head. You would need to replace the pistons to bring the CP down to 9 to 1 and forged rods. There was an issue with the early years of this engine with the rings but if you are replacing the pistons anyway this is no longer an issue.

Mr220v can do the wiring for you so it just about becomes a plug and play. He can also give you some info on the gearbox.

From what I?ve been told the best engine to get would be out of a Celica as it has been said that the valves are a bit bigger as opposed to the Vibe or Matrix. This has not been confirmed. For what ever reason they say not to use the one out of an MR-S. I think it?s because of the pre cat issues. There may be some issues with that ECU as well.
Also you want to get one without the Electronic throttle as that?s a can of worms to deal with I?m told.

All this being said the guys at TurboKits.com are getting 235 whp @ 7 psi on stock internals. They also said they get 275 whp at 11 psi on stock internal but if you do that vary much you will break a rod. If you rebuild the engine with new pistons and rods it would no longer be an issue.

You can find out a lot of information over on the newcelica forum. I don?t know if they still have it going on but they had their turbo kit on sale for 2500 to the celica guys on a group buy.

If I remember anything else I?ll add it later. Anyone need a Computer consultant/project manger so I can get started on my project car.

If you spend all that money on a 1zz bock you will be at the same price as 2zz engine. So that somewhat defeats the whole point of a cheap 1zz engine swap.

The 1zz or 2zz swaps in a MKI would be identical. Same engine mounts, same trans, same wiring. If you want power get a 2zz no need to make any changes internally to a 2zz.

The 1zz actually has a better stock oil pan than the 2zz. MWR sells a cheaper option than the moroso which is a slightly modified 1zz pan that even the 2zz guys use.

I say leave the 1zz alone. Don't open it. Done bore anything. Don't try to build it. The whole point of the 1zz is that you can replace it for $500.

There are a lot of 1zz turbo spyders running 8psi on a stock motor without any issues. It is important to get a good oil cooler and have some type of knock control.

I tracked a stock 1zz for 2 years at 10psi in 100 degree california heat and it never broke. It did have a good oil cooler, moroso pan, and a great ECU. That motor made 247whp at 13psi.

The 1zz would be a great motor for someone who wanted cheap reliable 130hp NA.

For turbo power I would stick with a 4agze.
 
#26 ·
Silversprint said:
If you spend all that money on a 1zz bock you will be at the same price as 2zz engine. So that somewhat defeats the whole point of a cheap 1zz engine swap.

The 1zz or 2zz swaps in a MKI would be identical. Same engine mounts, same trans, same wiring. If you want power get a 2zz no need to make any changes internally to a 2zz.

The 1zz actually has a better stock oil pan than the 2zz. MWR sells a cheaper option than the moroso which is a slightly modified 1zz pan that even the 2zz guys use.

I say leave the 1zz alone. Don't open it. Done bore anything. Don't try to build it. The whole point of the 1zz is that you can replace it for $500.

There are a lot of 1zz turbo spyders running 8psi on a stock motor without any issues. It is important to get a good oil cooler and have some type of knock control.

I tracked a stock 1zz for 2 years at 10psi in 100 degree california heat and it never broke. It did have a good oil cooler, moroso pan, and a great ECU. That motor made 247whp at 13psi.

The 1zz would be a great motor for someone who wanted cheap reliable 130hp NA.

For turbo power I would stick with a 4agze.
Great additional information, thanks. Wouldn't it cost quite a bit more to turbo the 4agze to get to the same whp? That was the other option I was researching.